Large Patch

on Jul 21 in Summer Lawn Care, Yard News

Large patch is a new name for an old disease of warm-season turfgrasses. This disease was formerly called brown patch, the same disease that affects cool-season grasses during hot weather. Other than the fact that they affect different grasses, there are several important differences between brown patch and large patch that necessitated a name change: they occur at different times of the year, produce distinct symptoms, are caused by different strains of the fungus Rhizoctonia solani, and require very different control strategies.

Large patch appears in roughly circular patches that are yellow, tan, or straw-brown. The patches are initially 2 to 3 feet in diameter, but can expand in size rapidly up to 10 feet or more in diameter, hence the name “large patch”. Multiple patches may coalesce to encompass even larger areas of turf. When the disease is actively developing, the outer edge of the patches are often red, orange, or bronze in color. Close examination of individual plants reveals the presence of reddish-brown or gray lesions on the leaf sheaths. It may be necessary to peel away the older, dead leaves in order to reveal the lesions on the younger leaf sheaths below.

Establishment of a disease-resistant turfgrass species is the most effective means for management of large patch. Bermudagrass rarely sustains significant damage from large patch, and grows of out the symptoms quickly when the disease does occur. In contrast, centipedegrass, seashore paspalum, St. Augustinegrass, and zoysiagrass often sustain serious damage and recovery can take several weeks or months. Fescues and bluegrasses are immune to large patch and are also an option in areas where cool-season turfgrasses can be maintained.

Do not apply nitrogen to warm-season grasses in the fall and spring. These grasses are growing slowly during this time and do not require a significant amount of this nutrient. In general, nitrogen should not be applied to the warm-season grasses within 6 weeks before dormancy in the fall or within 3 weeks after green-up begins in the spring. Warm-season grasses vary in their fertility requirements, so refer to local University recommendations for more specific recommendations for timing and rates.

Avoid establishing warm-season grasses in low lying areas that remain saturated for extended periods of time from surface runoff. If this is unavoidable, install subsurface drainage to remove excess water from the soil. Irrigate only as needed to prevent severe drought stress in the fall and spring. Control traffic patterns to prevent severe compaction, and aerify as needed to maintain soil drainage and aeration. Mow at recommended heights, and power rake or vertical mow as needed to control thatch accumulations.

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